Episode 3 / Эпизод 3

Palazzo e giardini Moroni - Bergamo

Having booked another excursion at the FAI website, I made a Green Pass and drove towards the next cultural heritage site - Palazzo Moroni in Bergamo. To be honest, I had a strange attitude about the city where I was going. For some reason, it seemed to me that the city was of no interest, an ordinary suburb of Milan with some small airport where low-cost planes arrive. Why such a wrong attitude towards the city that I have never been to and only drove through a million times on the way to Venice or in order to meet someone at the airport - I can't give an answer to this question - this is like "I haven't read Pasternak, but I condemn." Having approached the city, an incredible panorama opened before us, standing on a hill and surrounded by a fortress. Below, at the foot is Bergamo bassa - driving along it, I realized that I was very wrong about this one. It turned out to be incredibly beautiful: architecture, well-maintained streets and at the top, on the hill, the incredible Bergamo alta, to which the historic funicular leads. Having bought tickets, I went to conquer this hill. From the upper part of the city, a panorama of the entire valley opened up all the way to the airport. The old town itself dazzles with its splendor and atmosphere. Impressions were enhanced by the fact that the city was decorated for Christmas and shone with all the decorations. Immediately nearby, we went to a wonderful restaurant, had lunch with a glass of fragrant red wine and went on a planned excursion.
Palazzo Moroni is still owned by the Moroni family, whose origin dates back to the 1400s. Imagine - six hundred years old. Now the building itself, as well as the gardens around it, are managed by the FAI, since the descendants of the Moroni family live in the United States. The entrance is located from the side of the road, paved with stone still, it seems, in the 18th century, which for me, who was born and lived many years in Moscow, is very remarkable: as you know, we don't do this - the annual re-tiling of the streets takes place almost simultaneously with the Paris fashion week. Entering the palazzo, one finds himself in the courtyard, which seems slightly narrow and elongated, opposite the entrance - a sculpture of Neptune, a tribute to the fashion of that time. The garden is arranged on a vertical principle: several terraces lead to a huge garden, which at that time was used as a vegetable garden for growing agricultural products: tomatoes, lettuce and much more - two brothers from the Moroni family were avid gardeners.
The palace itself impresses with an abundance of frescoes on the ceilings and walls, which date back to the Italian Baroque period. From above, images of the love story of Cupid and Psyche, depicted on the ceiling area and around the perimeter, looking up, we also see the symbols of death, good luck, pretense, curiosity, courage, cruelty, obedience and reward. Further below, on the walls are frescoes dedicated to the Moroni family, in which, in the form of giant bronze statues, those human qualities are depicted that should be reflected in members of this noble family, such as: spirituality, commitment to history, health, honor, luck, wealth, dignity, prowess and education. Next, we went into the living room, where three works by the artist Albino Giovanni Battista Moroni hung on the walls. In one painting, a lady was sitting in a chair. Her figure, completely depicted on canvas, speaks of her exceptional position in society - since the full image of the figure was the privilege of men. On the second canvas - Gian Gerolamo Grumelli - a gentleman in pink. And the third shows an elderly woman in a black dress against a black wall - which speaks of her widowhood. These three works are an incredible embodiment of the artist's skill and one of the most significant works of the 17th century. We walked through several rooms of the castle, which are available for visiting - each of these rooms is richly decorated with frescoes and furnished with furniture from the 16th-18th centuries. Incredible pleasure and supreme inspiration.
The path to our next architectural gem is across two borders: the first Italy-Switzerland at Chiasso and the second Switzerland-Italy near Lugano. Thus, in an hour on the road, we drove through part of Switzerland and returned to Italy. Although these boundaries are almost invisible here, sometimes you can get stuck in a traffic jam in Chiasso. The villa is located on the shores of Lake Lugano. To be honest, this is the first time I've been there. A few words about the city of Lugano. Italian architecture and Swiss cleanliness. The city looks like the quintessence of these two concepts, plus Lake Lugano itself and its surroundings raised a question in my head: did I make a mistake in choosing a place to live. But then I thought: perhaps not, there is not enough life here, and my vicinity to Milan is an undeniable advantage. In general, having decided that I would definitely come to Lugano for a weekend visit, I went with a calm soul to inspect another object from the FAI collection - Villa Fogazzaro Roi. The villa stands on the very edge of the water in a village called Orio, on a street named after the Italian writer Antonio Fogazzaro, a member of the Fogazzaro-Roi marquis family. For the family, the villa was a place of retreat and relaxation, and for the writer it became a source of inspiration for writing Piccolo mondo antico, a work that made Antonio one of the most famous Italian writers. In the book every now and then you find descriptions and quotes from this place. One of the clearest examples is the description of the gazebo, which is located on the terrace overlooking the lake. The guide quoted us an excerpt from the book, in which this gazebo is described to the smallest detail as it still appears to our eyes: the same forged elements of the fence, the same plants, the same table in the middle, the same panorama. The only thing that has not survived to this day are the chairs: they are newer, but blend perfectly with the historical context. Equilibrium, created from the historic interiors of the villa, green spaces in the garden and the incredible tranquility of the lake, creates an atmosphere of timelessness. The original building, dating back to the 16th century, was then repeatedly completed and modified, but nevertheless retained its architectural unity. The last owner is the Marquis Giuseppe Roi - great-great-great-grandson of Fogazzaro. He inherited this villa in the 1960s. In the 1950s and 1960s, he modernized and restored the complex by adding a new dining room, an office and a bedroom. He also restored the rest of the house to its former beauty and splendor, paying special attention to Antonio Fogazzaro's apartments. The original carved bed on which the writer slept is still in his room, a collection of wall decorations, a bureau with preserved original manuscripts, as well as the best view of the lake, immerse us in the atmosphere of that time. As in the first episode about Villa Balbianello, whose owner was an avid traveler and collector, the Marquis Giuseppe Roi, known in Italy as Boso, was also an avid collector. Thanks to his passion, the house is filled with various artifacts brought by him from all over the world. The Marquis died in 2009 and bequeathed the house to the FAI Foundation. Among the vast list of conditions for the maintenance of the villa are also instructions for maintaining the decoration of the dining table in the form that it was during his life. As then, this work is still done by his majordomo, who regularly visits the villa and arranges the dishes on the table according to clear rules of etiquette.
Забронировав очередную экскурсию на FAI, я сделал Green Pass и поехал по направлению к нашему следующему объекту культурного наследия - Palazzo Moroni в Бергамо. Признаюсь честно, у меня было странное отношение к городу, куда мне предстояло поехать. Мне почему-то казалось, что город не представляет никакого интереса, обычное подмиланье с каким-то маленьким аэропортом, куда прибывают самолеты лоукостеров. Почему вдруг такое неправильное отношение к городу, в котором ни разу не бывал и только проезжал по хайвею миллион раз по дороге в Венецию или для того, чтобы встретить кого-то в аэропорту - на этот вопрос я дать ответ не могу - это из серии "Пастернака не читал, но осуждаю". Подъехав к городу, перед нами открылась невероятная панорама, стоящего на холме и окруженного крепостью города. Внизу, у подножья находится Bergamo bassa - проезжая по нему я понял что сильно ошибался на счет этого него. Он оказался невероятно красивым: прекрасная архитектура, ухоженные улицы и наверху, на холме - невероятный Bergamo alta, к которому ведет исторический фуникулер. Купив билеты, я отправился покорять этот холм. С верхней части города открывалась панорама на всю долину и на тот самый аэропорт. Сам старый город ослепляет своим великолепием и атмосферой. Впечатления усиливались еще и тем, что город был украшен к Рождеству и сиял всеми декорациями. Тут же неподалеку, мы зашли в прекрасный ресторан, пообедали с бокалом ароматного красного вина и отправились на запланированную экскурсию.
Палаццо Морони до сих пор принадлежит семье Морони, чье начало отсчитывается с 1400-х годов. Представьте себе - шестьсот лет роду. Сейчас само здание, как и сады вокруг находятся под управлением FAI, поскольку потомки семьи Морони живут в США. Вход находится со стороны проезжей улицы, вымощенной камнем еще , кажется, в XVIII веке, что для меня, как для москвича - весьма примечательно: у нас как известно так не делают - ежегодная перекладка плитки происходит почти одновременно с проведением парижской недели моды.
Войдя в палаццо, попадаешь во внутренний двор, который кажется слегка узковатым и вытянутым, напротив входа - скульптура Нептуна, дань моде того времени. Сад устроен по вертикальному принципу: несколько террас переходят в огромный сад который в то время использовался как огород для выращивания продукции сельского хозяйства: помидоров, салатных листьев и многого другого - два брата из семьи Морони были заядлыми садоводами.
Сам дворец поражает обилием фресок на потолках и стенах, которые относятся к периоду итальянского барокко. Сверху на нас смотрят изображения любовной истории Амура и Психеи, написанные на площади потолка и по периметру, также мы видим здесь символы смерти, удачи, притворства, любопытства, отваги, жестокости, повиновения и вознаграждения. Далее ниже, на стенах изображены фрески посвященные семье Морони, в которых в виде гигантских бронзовых статуй изображены те человеческие качества, которые должны находить отражения в членах этого знатного рода, такие как: одухотворенность, приверженность истории, здоровье, честь, удача, богатство, достоинство, доблесть и образованность.
Далее мы прошли в гостиную, где на стенах висели три произведения художника Albino Giovanni Battista Moroni. На одной работе дама, сидящая в кресле. Ее фигура, полностью изображенная на холсте, что говорит о ее исключительном положении в обществе - поскольку полное изображение фигуры была привилегией мужчин. На втором полотне- Джан Джероламо Грумелли - кавалер в розовом. и на третьем изображена пожилая женщина в черном платье на фоне черной стены - что говорит о ее вдовьем положении. Эти три работы - являются невероятным воплощением мастерства художника и одними из самых значимых произведений XVII века. Мы прошли по нескольким помещениям замка, который доступны к посещению - каждое из этих помещений богато украшено фресками и обставлено мебелью XVI-XVIII веков. Невероятное удовольствие и высочайшее вдохновение.